A toilet replacement looks like the simplest job in the house, and sometimes it is. But the price depends on the answers to a handful of questions, and not all are obvious from the doorway. Rather than quote numbers that will be out of date and misleading, this guide sets out the factors, so you can see why two quotes differ and ask the right questions.
Supply and fit, or fit only
Some people buy a toilet suite themselves and ask only for installation; others want the plumber to supply it. Both can work. Supply and fit means one party is responsible for the product and the installation, which simplifies things if something is wrong. Fit only can cost less, but check that the toilet you bought suits the existing outlet, because a mismatch costs time. Ask whoever installs it to confirm the model before you buy.
Understanding the type of outlet
Toilets connect to the drain in two main ways. Some have the outlet at the back and go into the wall, while others have it going down through the floor. A replacement usually needs to match the existing arrangement, or the floor or wall must be altered. Swapping between types can be a much bigger job than a like-for-like change. Photograph the back and base of the existing toilet and the pipework behind it to help the plumber assess this.
What else affects the charge
- Condition of the connection. The flange or seal at the floor, the pipe behind the wall and the water supply tap may all need replacing.
- Floor and wall condition. A rotten or damaged floor around an old, leaking toilet is a separate repair.
- Type of cistern. Concealed in-wall cisterns and push-button systems are more involved than a standard close-coupled suite.
- Water efficiency. Check the water efficiency label on any new unit, because it tells you how much water each flush uses.
- Access. Upper floors, tight rooms and difficult parking all add time.
- Removal and disposal. Old porcelain is heavy and needs taking away.
- Silicone and finishing. Sealing and tidy finishing around the base are part of a proper installation.
Checking what the quote includes
Before accepting, ask your plumber to confirm in writing:
- Whether the toilet suite, seat and connectors are included, and which model.
- Whether new isolation taps, flexible hoses and sealing parts are included.
- Whether removal and disposal of the old toilet are included.
- What happens if the floor or pipework turns out to need repair, and how the extra cost is approved.
- What paperwork you will receive for the work.
When replacing is better than repairing
If the problem is a leaking cistern valve, a worn flapper or a loose seat, repair is cheaper and quicker. A cracked bowl, a persistent leak at the base, a toilet that blocks regularly, or an old pan that wastes water are the usual reasons to replace. Before deciding, try the steps in eight methods that actually work, because a repeat blockage might be in the drain and not the toilet.
Licensed work and finding someone
In NSW, connecting a toilet to water and drainage is regulated plumbing work, so it should be done by a licensed plumber. Check the licence on the NSW Fair Trading licence check before work starts. For a more general guide to what influences prices, read plumbing costs in Sydney, and for choosing a provider see how to choose a plumber.